I am not sure about you guys but I am always looking out for something different, something unique in terms of science and ingredients used in skincare and of course how well the product delivers on the claims and I feel NIOD from Deciem fits the bill perfectly! Deciem was founded by Brandon Truaxe (formerly associated by Indeed Labs) and they call themselves "The Abnormal Beauty Company". NIOD as known as Non - Invasive Options in Dermal Science is on the higher end side of skincare spectrum with some very unique products fully backed up with science. Naturally it intrigued me!
Niod is mostly known for their CAIS ie Copper Amino Isolate Serum which focuses on improving the overall skin health rather than visible signs of ageing like fine lines, wrinkles etc. You can read more about Niod here on Caroline Hirons blog. Do not miss it as there is tons of info there!
They recently added a new addition to their ever growing line of products, a mask called Flavanone Mud and after reading their claims and description I had to pick it up and test it out myself to fuss what exactly is the fuss about!
Flavanone Mud - Flavanone Mud is a three-phase rinse-off dermal decongestion system that disrupts neither the skin surface equilibrium nor its density. While FM can be classified as a masque for categorical convenience, its approach varies substantially from that offered by the concept of masques today both in terms of its way of positive influence on the skin as well as its respect for dermal integrity.
Masques in general offer decongestion of the skin by means of including muds and clays to absorb surface impurities. While some level of deeper cleaning does occur with this approach, muds or clays are unable to solubilize surface impurities and so the decongestion is inefficient. Furthermore, the visible effect is very temporary and further exposure to pollution and cosmetics will undo most of the positive effect.
FM approaches dermal decongestion in three phases:
This phase is the simplest one in the formulation and the one that is most closely aligned with masques as they are known today. In this phase, surface impurities—which include oil- and water-soluble pollution, cosmetic product build-up and excess sebum activity build-up—are physically solubilized and removed.
A highly-efficient bio-solubilizing technology breaks down both water- and oil-soluble impurities within seconds of application;
A delivery system for molecular oxygen gas within the formulation increases oxygen supply in the upmost layers of the skin, increasing the skin's aerobic energy system while, as a side effect, opposing reactive oxygen species that contribute to longer-term ageing; A black Amazonian clay with very high concentrations of titanium and oligo-elements binds to solubilized external impurities while reducing visible pore inconsistency immediately; A sedimentary white clay binds to excess sebum function bi-products without impairing surface barrier integrity; A copper-rich—yet stable—clay from Brazil reinforces surface barrier function during the cleaning process.
This phase of FM's formulation offers the most innovative approach to decongestion by introducing technologies that offer a shield against external build-up.
A sea polysaccharide from microorganisms found in Polynesian coral reefs fights ongoing build up of urban pollution, builds a shield against external aggression and allows for better response to climate changes which occur even when not travelling; An advanced analogue of resveratrol, which enables a first-ever topical utility of this incredible molecule, is a potent inhibitor of dopa oxidase to protect against environmental browning; A bio-technological derivative of bitter orange peel targets the JAK enzyme to protect against over-expression of pro-inflammatory factors which can be triggered by external aggravation and lead to premature ageing; An ultra-pure bisabolol—with up to 900 times less impurity than standard German chamomile flower derivatives—fights inflammation through a secondary support mechanism while forming a mild but sustainable barrier against climate change.
This phase of the formulation introduces signalling mechanisms to support inherent dermal immunity against environmental congestion factors. This phase is the most important phase of FM with respect to supporting health and longevity. The presence of "Flavanone" in the name of the product emphasizes the importance of this phase.
A highly-purified flavanone derived from the inner white parts of citrus peel, triggers a sustained circulatory, non-inflammatory response to support dermal detoxification and immune functions; A pre-cursor to a modified oleic acid that is naturally produced on normal skin by a yeast offers a slow, non-abrupt, increase of this acid without disrupting dermal pH or density. This acid is naturally a distress flare that acts as a defence response and an anti-inflammatory agent unlike many other direct acids used in skincare that actually increase inflammation, reduce skin density and can reduce skin defences.
The result of this combined approach is one that offers dermal decongestion from the inside, the outside and by means of a further shield against congestion. This purification process allows for a form of sustained dermal radiance that is not "fabricated" through short-term inflammation or peeling.
RESPECT FOR DERMAL INTEGRITY
Masques and rinse-off treatments often highlight a promise toward glowing skin without respect for the simple fact that for skin to be truly glowing, so much needs to be in order including purification, texture regularity, pigmentation regularity, microcirculation, pore prominence and sebum function. Since masques in general at best address the issue of surface purification, their promise of glowing skin often would fall short and, in order to avoid user disappointment, these formulations often include more aggressive clays, acids and exfoliation mechanisms mainly to introduce enough irritation to increase circulation for a temporarily "glowing" tone. This approach, however, disrupts skin pH immediately, reduces skin density (thickness) and always causes inflammation which may lead to undue longer-term ageing.
FM avoids the use of aggressive clays, direct acids, low or high pH, exfoliating agents or any material that would disrupt dermal balance or cause undue inflammation. This approach means FM has to work much harder to achieve the perceived "glow" that excess inflammation would offer temporarily and that's what FM is, in fact, designed to do: work much harder and from many different perspectives to build sustainable purity and the radiance that follows.
One of the most advanced technologies used in FM is actually one that sounds the most boring: a very refined dispersion mechanism that allows for a very thin layer of the formula to cover the skin surface very evenly. Most masques require a thick layer to be applied to cover the entire face mainly due to the fact that clays and muds do not disperse well. This drawback generally wastes a large amount of product that will sit in a thick layer on the skin's surface while only the very thin layer of the masque is actually in contact with the skin. In addition to product waste, many technologies used within masques become trapped within the thicker fast-drying layers of the formulations, rendering their utility highly inefficient for the skin.
FM's dispersion advancement reduces the amount of product needed to cover the skin surface by as much as 80% compared to traditional approaches which means each 50ml container will offer between 18 and 25 treatments. The dispersion technology also allows for very rapid surface drying which translates to very quick absorption of the non-surface technologies used within the formulation.
FM is designed to be used once per week. Its circulatory—yet non-inflammatory—targets may lead to a stinging sensation which actually increases for a few minutes after the product is rinsed-off. The product should be applied on clean, dry skin as a very thin even layer and left on for 10 minutes. Some benefit will be seen immediately after the first use, the benefits will be more evident 24-48 hours after application and will continue to be maintained—and improved in the initial weeks—with continued use. Note: An accelerated method of use would be to use FM once per day for the first five days followed by weekly maintenance applications.
Ingredients:- Aqua (Water), Montmorillonite, Kaolin, Bisabolol, Glycerin, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Silica Cetyl Silylate¸ Isodecyl neopentanoate, Panthenyl Triacetate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Perfluorodecalin, Ethoxydiglycol, Argilla, Butylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydroxyresveratrol, Naringenin, L-Arginine, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Glycosphingolipids, Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Acacia Senegal Gum, Mica, Quartz, Sucrose Palmitate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
My thoughts and experience:-
Lets talk about the packaging quickly, I honestly am not a fan of this glass bottle packaging as the opening on the bottle is quite narrow and as you use up the mask it can become quite difficult to get it out in future, I think I'll have to invest in a tiny spatula or a spoon! I wish it would come in a more wider mouth bottle or even plain simple tub packaging would be great unless and until it does not compromise the product :P Yes I can be quite demanding :P
The mask itself is quite unique! It is no doubt the smoothest texture I have ever come across especially in a clay based mask! The mask is deep rust color not something I expected in a face mask but then its Niod so I guess we should expect unexpected :) The first time I used this mask I was blown away! Niod recommends to let it sit for 10 mins but I know Gill from Victoria Health kept it on for longer (read about it here) and didnt face any issues so I went ahead and kept it for over 30 mins! Results - Unbelievable! My skin looks literally poreless and trust me that is impossible task to achieve! The skin appeared smooth with even skin tone. The thing that blew me away the most was how the texture of my skin looked improved. The result reminded me of a peel but without the waiting period! Now Niod does mention there might be a little bit of stinging sensation after you remove the mask and yes there is but its not unbearable and does fade away in 10 mins. I had few clogged pores and after one use of this mask, they literally disappeared over night! Which if you are skincare junkie like me..you know nothing really happens over night!
I was so impressed by the first time use result that I decided to go for the accelerated method of using the mask consecutively for 5 days and than once a week for maintenance and thats when the things went south for me! Let me explain. As I mentioned above day one results were fantastic, day 2 was also good but I noticed the stinging sensation was a bit more this time, but as I was so happy with the day 1 results I didnt bother much and the sensation did go away. The worst mistake I made was to use an acid toner after the mask! DONOT use any kind of exfoliator chemical or physical after this mask or else you will wake up to a very angry and irritated skin!
The next day ie Day 3 in the morning my skin was a bit red and appeared rough, I got really confused so as to why this happened. If you have ever done chemical peels stronger than 25% you know how the skin turns red after the peel and there are few rashes as well, thats what happened with my skin. From that day I stopped using acid toner and my priority was to calm down the skin and get it back to its normal state. Using all moisturizing and nourishing products my skin was back on track. I did use the mask for next two days again but this time I avoided the use of acid toners completely but still the stinging sensation increased everyday to a point that on the last day ie day 5 the stinging went on for almost 30 mins after removing the mask! Even my Avene Thermal Spring Water wasn't helping much in calming the skin down! Clearly I had over exfoliated my skin!
Final Thoughts:- Is this mask worth it.. Yes Absolutely BUT only as once a week treatment! Flavanone Mud is amazing when it comes to removing dead skin cells and helping with congestion, the results are exactly same if not better as using a chemical peel on the skin! But the accelerated approach of using the mask 5 times consecutively each day is a bit too much! That is way too much exfoliation for skin and causes serious irritation especially since your skin does not get enough time to repair itself and regenerate the top layer! The skin is extremely sensitive and using it everyday for 5 days causes over exfoliation which further irritates the skin and can cause breakouts! Recently Molly from Skinritualdiary wrote a fantastic post on exfoliation! Read it here.
I still will be using this mask on weekly basis as its a fantastic mask and I highly recommend the same but however I don't recommend going for the accelerated approach! Of course this is a personal preference and would depend upon individual's skin type but if you have sensitive skin first do a patch test, also avoid any kinds of exfoliation chemical or physical scrubs, also after the mask incorporate nourishing and repairing oils and moisturizers!
Flavanone Mud mask is currently available for 39$ for 50ml with free world wide shipping, also till 31st May 2016 use code "LOVEYOU2016" to get 20% off your entire order! I finally might get CAIS serum!
I hope this first impressions review and experience was helpful! Until next time take care and stay beautiful!
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